right tools for the right job

I'm getting close to committing big time to this project. Ive decided the tube diameter (45mm big and chunky) and found a supplier of CDS - though im still waiting for their quote. I know what welder im going to buy (yes im going to buy one! had an unexpected bonus recently and think i ought to spend it on some thing useful before the wife spends it on something utterly useless), and i know what pipe-bender i will get.
So all i need now is a couple of new hacksaw blades and a couple of decent hand files.... but WHAT files?
I know i could tell what files I want if i could hold them in my hand, but I dont know of any stores that stock a good range of files - even the draper store near me can only "get them in for you mate".
So I go to the online specialists and find that the choice is overwhelming and the im lost on all the technical specifications and terminology. Fortunately i know that the internet has the answer for me somewhere and of course Wiki deleivers the result.
If you are ever wondering what type of file to buy, read this first....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File_(tool)
and then when you are ready to buy your files, Buck and Hickman appear to have an extensive range
http://bhinone.farnell.com/jsp/search2/browse.jsp?N=401+1000147
And as i write this now a txt message pops up on my phone from TVOR reminding me not to forget to order good handles too!

Clamp blocks design

Ive been getting a bit stressed. Ive been getting a bit frustrated with people telling me how they would do it. I'm not proud of myself for this feeling - i spend most of my working days teaching people that they should be open minded to different ideas and approaches. However, I had these feelings of frustration and so I had to face up to them.
This rear-end attachment has created some debate. There are indeed, many ways I could skin this cat - and Ive become a bit attached to one specific idea. And its kinda hard to let go when suggestions are offered and I'm refusing to see how they can be any better. I have been of the mind to forget my tight budget and just go and get the clamp blocks engineered for me so i can focus on the frame (and not the component parts).
But I've taken some deep breaths and reflected on how my single-minded focus might be restricting my progress - and i think ive come up with a solution that should satisfy me on a number of levels;
1) the above solution is something that i can fabricate myself - thus saving me critical budget, AND fulfilling my "I-did-it-myself" requirement
2) it offers strength and integrity without compromising aesthetics or budget
3) I managed by the skin of my teeth to break away from my restrictive idea to find one that is better
As I say, I'm not proud of the fact that I got irritated by other ideas offered in good will - but i'm pleased that i recognised my poor behaviour and developed it. I shall try harder next time and I apologise here and now to anyone who i might have offended by not being interested enough in their suggestions (rest assured now that i have thought long and hard about all those comments and i think that you have all influenced the final outcome as seen in the sketch above)

So I shall make it out of box section (maybe 5mm is too thick - 3mm is probably quite good enough and the width is dependent on the diameter of the frame tubes) - i like this option because it will be relatively easy to make (i don't want to spend too much time making components for a project that is supposed to be a "conceptual" art piece - im a big-picture man, not a detail man). And I like the the way in this design that the clamping force between the two halves of the clamp blocks is through the faces of the box sections, and not onto the axle tube

I feel satisfied with the final design, guilty about getting irritated, and grateful for all the support and stimulation - please keep the ideas coming and remind me whenever I'm dismissive again

Thinking about my rear end

So how am i going to fix the frame to the rear axle? This is an important question on a number of levels.... Not least the fact that it is critical to the safety and handling.... but almost as important in as much that so many trike builders seem to make such a pigs ear of their project at this point.
Clearly the easiest approach would be to use the existing mountings on the axle itself (leaf spring mounts and shock-absorber mounts). Im not convinced however that this is the most beautiful solution - the spring mounts are too far outboard for me - i really want to keep the rear end clean and spindley and to do this i need to keep the frame as close to the centerline as i dare go while ensuring i keep an adequate degree of rigidity in the construction. Once again the position that Reliant gifted me with for the shock-absorber mounts aren't ideal (in my eyes).
Kev at projex uses the method shown in the top of the attached sketch - and i must say i rather like this - it would allow me to create a torsional rigidity (to handle all that power that a reliant engine drives through that performance differential) and keep the lines of the frame neat and tidy. This solution would mean that i would need to pay someone to do some engineering for me to make the clamp blocks.
Hughie, always looking out for my budget, wondered if i might be able to fabricate my own (and avoid the engineering costs) clamp blocks - similar to the idea in the lower part of the sketch (perhaps out of fabricated flat, tube and/or box sections). My concern here is that i dont want to be spending my time fabricating components when i should be fabricating the frame itself. I am sure there are other ways of executing this, and i shall postup some other sketches shortly

Now i feel like a proper trike builder

I am surprised at just how excited I was to receive an inch thick file of official regulations and procedures. Normally I would file detailed paperwork where it belongs (with the missis) But this manual is rather special.
For 30 quid (and that doesnt come out of my build budget) and a number of protracted telephone conversations with some very nice, but a little confused Welsh people in Swansea, I bought myself the VOSA (Vehicle & Operator Services Agency) MSVA (Motorcycle Single Vehicle Approval) inspection manual.
This is going to have to be my bible to which i will have to navigate around to find the loopholes that will allow me to create the Trike that i like.
Im a little concerned about chapter 8 - "External projections - unbodied vehicles".... Reasons for failure, point 8. "Any protruding part pointing outwards, that is, a) pointed, b) sharp and are likely to increase the risk or seriousness of body lesions suffered by any person struck or grazed by the vehicle in the event of an accident"..... so where does that leave an open and exposed car engine??

clearing the log jam in my head

I sometimes get a bit mind locked when im working on exciting projects - i see a challenge, explore various solutions and then from those solutions make a choice about a plan of action. All very well, but only if you've explored ALL the solutions. If you've only got half a dozen mediocre solutions to choose from, you could find yourself implementing a bit of a soggy idea.
So it is with great thanks to TVOR and Hughie that I felt rather satisfied with my efforts today.
TVORs thoughts in an earlier posting about using the existing forks as a way of jigging the headstock is of course the genius way to do this. You can see from the photo, that its quite a simple job done like this.
And Hughie came over on his Harley to see how progress was going. We spent a jolly good time in the garage with various lengths of pipe insulation exploring the ways in which the frame could lay out. Once again i was especially stuck on the bit of frame that will go round and over the back of the engine - which in hindsight seems trivial, but i simply couldnt see any alternative to my mediocre solution - until Hughie said with a bit of bent foam pipe in hand "well why dont you do this?" - no point describing the idea here, its not particularly interesting to the reader, but for me it was another moment of clearing the log jam in my head.
We also explored the petrol tank - i havent been very happy with the look and feel of the petrol tank that ive got - it just doesn't fit sweetly with my vision... and so petrol tank ideas are starting to develop - more on that later.
All in all, im getting close to having to commit to buying some frame tubing (which by the way, both Hughie and I are agreeing on as looking rather nice in a phat I.D.) - just got to decide on the method of tieing the frame to the rear axle - but thats a whole new blog post

Budget update

£609 (as of last count) + £70 (headstock turning and bearings) = £679
Crikey, I'm a bit worried that im going to go over budget - can i really bring this all together now for just over 300 quid? and i haven't even bought my frame tubing yet!

A Jig for the Jig

So now that ive got the headstock, ive got to work out where to put it!
I'd forgotten just how heavy the front end was and its quite difficult to hold everything in place so that you can get a feel for the look and ride position (I ignored all wheel geometry theory - I was just looking for the look). A couple of lengths of rope and a few g-clamps helped me out while I created an MDF template that I will be able to use eventually to position the headstock at the correct height and angle.
So all I need to do now is fabricate a jig to hold the headstock tube firmly in place and keep it square and true to the centerline and perpendicular while i shape and weld the frame tubes to it. Professional frame builders use a very simple pair of steel cones that clamp down on the headstock tube ensuring it remains on center axis.... im wondering what i can improvise to create a similar set up. something like a pair of cones or balls with a length of All-thread up the middle that i can tighten together - need to keep my eyes peeled

Nice bit of turning

Kev at Projex came up with the goods - a lovely shiney new headstock.
I left work early to dash over and collect it for the weekend. Kev was just shutting up shop to set off to a bike show and present his sponsor trophy for best in show - he'd made a little billet machined forks and yoke trophy mounted on a granite plinth - ive got my eyes on that prize for next year.
Before he had to get away, I managed to get some thoughts out of him on 1)prop shaft modification, and 2) rear axle mounting
1) Kev reckons - as the prop shaft will be so short it wont need balancing - he reckons i could do it myself! He makes his own but didnt seem interested in doing me one. He reckons a quick chop, sleeve and weld - and some longitudinal slots cut through and welded in to get a good sheer resistant join
2) Kev reckons - dont use any of the original mounting points on the rear axle - grind those off - and use a split block clamp - I'll put some sketches up on line soon - i quite like the idea here as it would look much more pretty and not constrain me to using mounting points that dont fit with where i want the frame to be

So I payed my £70. 50 quid for the turning, and 20 quid for 2 new bearings, and left Kev feeling like im now a real motor bike builder

dontcha just love the internet?

Im starting to think about the equipment im going to need to build the frame - principly a pipe bender and a welder
But what welder to get? a couple of hours on the internet has some answers.....
http://www.mechwerks.com/Welding.htm - suggests 210A
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/articles/articles70.html - suggests 250A
and if you need a tutorial on how to do it?....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF3ZWAAu_jI&feature=related

why i can even learn how NOT to make a frame!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6hUMeZXKJM&feature=user

As for pipe, ive been learning that i should be thinking about something like 30mm O.D, 3mm wall thickness (though i wonder if 30mm might look a bit too skinny)

Theres some interesting stuff on pipe on this site (including a bend allowance calculator)
http://www.rorty-design.com/content/tube_work.htm
and check out their section on "poultry-poo" welding
So i go to bed a little more informed